Okayama Castle
Okayama is an area that I have always wanted to visit because it is “famous”. It is well known in Japan, but I really had no clear idea what is special about Okayama. During the Setouchi Triennale, I had a chance to visit Okayama by the way of visiting Inujima and Uno, but I still didn’t visit the main city of Okayama itself. After visiting all of the islands, I spent a day in Okayama city itself to see if it was special or not. I learned that a lot of things are not very convenient or required more work than I was intending to do. The city itself turned out to be a big letdown and I felt I had wasted a bit of my time visiting the city. While I don’t regret visiting Okayama city itself, I find it hard to recommend it to people for a prolonged period of time. Unfortunately, either my love of the Triennale areas made Okayama a tough city to follow up on or it really isn’t that special.
Momotaro and Friends in Front of Okayama Station (Perfect Ad Placement)
Okayama city is a medium sized city that is well known as a transportation hub. It is where people transfer from the Shinkansen to head to Shikoku amongst other areas of the Chugoku region. All Shinkansen stop in Okayama and many regular trains depart from Okayama for far away areas. It is a transportation gateway to many other regions in Chugoku and Shikoku but other than that, it isn’t very special. The station itself is pretty large with a lot going on in it, but outside of the station it isn’t very busy. There are a few shopping streets around the station but none of them are particularly spectacular. The only sights to see would be the NHK building, also unimpressive, and the statue of Momotaro. The story of Momotaro talks about a boy being sent from heaven inside a peach. The peach was picked up by a couple who opened it and named him Momotaro, or Peach-Taro. Unless you grow up with the story, I don’t think it would be very interesting for most people. The origin of Momotaro, at least for the story, comes from the Okayama region, and possibly in the Shikoku region as well. The tale tells of how he went to an ogre island to kill the ogres and met a dog, pheasant, and monkey along the way who became his friends. You can see this imagery all over Okayama as they really play up this tale.
Korakuen
There are only 2 sights to see when you visit Okayama. The first, lesser known, sight is Okayama Castle. It is a tall black castle that is reminiscent of any other rebuilt castle you can find in Japan. After visiting several castles in Japan, I found Okayama to be uninspiring. It was nice to see and walk around the castle grounds, but I wasn’t interested in visiting the inside of the museum as I prefer to visit the insides of castles that are all original, or recreated to be the same as the original castle. The main jewel of Okayama has to be Korakuen Garden. It is one of the top 3 most beautiful gardens in Japan and one of the places I have been meaning to visit for a long time. Korakuen is a beautiful place located a nice 10 minute walk south of Okayama Station. It is not very easy to get to at first, but there are a few entrances for Korakuen. I found the garden to be a nice little garden but it could have been a lot better. My timing to visit the garden couldn’t have been worse. If I was a week earlier, I would have been able to see the gardens at the peak of the plum blossom season. If I was a week later, the cherry blossoms would have been in full bloom. I was very unlucky in this respect and the gardens themselves were pretty bare and boring. Timing is extremely important when visiting any garden and I was just unlucky. The highlight of my visit to Korakuen was a short stop at the tea shop. There is a nice lovely tea shop located in the corner of the garden, next to the tea fields. You can see a lot of the garden and just enjoy a lovely cup of tea along with the most famous treat from Okayama, kibi dango. It is simply a mochi dessert with nice roasted soy powder (kinako) on top. Korakuen’s specialty is kibi dango with the kinako on top and you cannot buy it outside of Korakuen. It is a nice treat, especially on a beautiful day and it was the highlight of my entire visit to Okayama.
Cute McDonald’s Doraemon Toys on Momotaro
Okayama city is not a place that I plan to visit again. I do want to visit the area one last time to go on a cycling adventure, but other than that I have no plans. I don’t really recommend visiting Okayama itself as you can see more things, and better things, in the surrounding areas. If you want to see a beautiful garden, you can always visit Ritsurin Koen in Takamatsu or any other garden. While I understand it is beautiful at Korakuen, I couldn’t justify a visit in the future. If you have a JR Pass, or capable of stopping off in Okayama, there is no harm in checking it out, but when I compare Okayama to my great trip to Takamatsu and the Seto Inland Sea, my trip felt like having grape juice after drinking the best wine in the world. As a friend said to me recently, “you have raised the bar and spoiled my idea of what sushi is back home” after I took him out to eat good sushi in Japan. I feel the same of Okayama. I have been to so many places in Japan that Okayama had a lot to live up to, and I must unfortunately say that it can’t live up to my expectations of interesting places in Japan.
I wanted to visit Okayama because of 1. The park 2. Momotaro but then decided against it during our last visit, partly because I wasn’t sure what else is interesting if I did. 😉
From my experience, you didn’t miss out on THAT much. 🙂
Kibitsu Jinja. That’s what I’d like to see in Okayama. 🙂
I’ve seen so many photos of Kōrakuen, and it’s never struck me as a have-to-see place. It looks like a big park with big lawns, but I’m being unfair: I’ve never experienced it myself.
The problem with Kibitsu Jinja is that it isn’t in the city itself. You still have to take a train out there, and then you’d have to rent a bicycle and cycle the whole Kibi Plains for a day. For the purpose of this post, I considered it different as it was just outside the city itself and at least a half day trip as well. I hope to do the trip next year though.
Yes, I did have kibitsu-jinja and the whole area in mind when I said “the countryside is pretty nice though”
“You’d have to rent a bicycle.” They don’t have zebras for rent? Darn! 😀
We can try to find a zebra for you. Or I can paint the bike in zebra colours. Will that work?
I don’t find Okayama city that interesting, but then again I don’t find any city interesting to visit.
Korakuen is worth a visit though, although the “3 most beautiful gardens” thing kinda annoys me. This appellation has no particular meaning, it’s just something that has been repeated over and over and now people continue to repeat it without thinking twice about it.
And I’m not saying this, because Ritsurin is not included (actually it proves that this appellation is meaningless).
Okayama’s countryside is pretty nice though, as well as the historical district of Kurashiki just a few kilometers away.
On the side note, the Oni island in Momotaro’s tale is Megijima, but you may already know it.
I find Osaka to be an interesting city. Tokyo is too. The smaller cities aren’t always that interesting though and this one was definitely one of the worst cities. Not a lot of places to eat and so forth. That, or I just couldn’t find them.
I did go to Kurashiki. That post is coming up in a few weeks or so.
On that side note, of course I knew that. 😉 Probably thanks to you a while back though. Or from my research.
There seems to be a national obsession with lists: 3 best this and 5 best that and 10 ichiban whatever. The lists have never failed to baffle me, but ignore me, I’m from Africa. >:)
David, on a totally unrelated note: even here in the urban jungle I can hear cidadas going nuts as I’m typing this. Not remotely as vociferous as yours, but still quite impressive.
I like the lists. Gives me something to write about without needing to think too hard. 😉
Although I don’t make too much of an effort to see them these days. I only made an effort for the top 3 views. Gardens? Not yet. Okayama was on the way back, so it wasn’t the main trip. I do want to go to Mito to see their garden. I heard it is much better. Plus, they have a nice craft beer brewery up there. I don’t think the garden would be the number 1 place I want to visit up there though. 😉
Oh, so many haters here. I’ll try to add balance, because I think Okayama is one of Japan’s best cities. The problem, I think, is more about traveler ignorance than Okayama, as demonstrated by the number of people saying they don’t know what there is to do. The city grows on you if you give it a chance.
I’ll try to introduce some other highlights:
In the central part of the city, of course Korakuen Garden is the highlight. It’s actually quite well-designed for the seasons, but even so, winter and early spring travel is not a great time for gardens. Okayama Castle’s turret is original, and the castle’s EXTERIOR follows the original very closely. Aside from these obvious sites, the Hayashibara Museum, Orient Museum, and Yumeji Museum are worthwhile. Tokoen Garden is also nice and you can usually have it all to yourself. The trams are charming, too.
Most of the Kibi Plains are in Okayama City. Kibitsu Shrine was already mentioned and is very unique architecturally. Kibitsuhiko Shrine is also nice (you don’t need a bike if you are just visiting one shrine, but most people rent them to bike the Kibi Plains cycling path). The connection to Momotaro makes the plains even more fun (I’m surprised you have never heard of the story. I had heard it when I was young in my country).
Saijo Inari is one of the top Inari Shrines. The Ashimori area has old samurai residences and its own garden.
The biggest, oldest, and best naked festival (Hadaka Matsuri) is held in Okayama at Saidaiji Temple.
Okayama is also a great city for foodies, but foodies, too, seem completely unaware.
(This is the first time I’ve ever heard of anyone saying they like Kairakuen better. It is almost entirely plum trees. Most people seem to actually agree that Korakuen and Kenrokuen are deserving of the ‘top 3’ designation however they say that Kairakuen should be dropped in favor of Ritsurin Garden.)
Thanks for the great reply. I am always happy to hear people champion a city they like but I didn’t. It helps me to learn more and hopefully experience more in the future. 🙂
Okayama-jo: I am pretty snobbish when it comes to castles now. I have visited over 5 different castles (counting off the top of my head and the list is actually growing a lot), and most of them were originals with no museums inside. Well, that isn’t completely true either. Most of them had small museums but for the complete originals, such as Himeji, Matsue, Kochi and Matsuyama, they were the best ones I had ever visited. I have also visited (inside) Hiroshima and Iwakuni and I am sure I am missing others. I have had chances to visit other recreations too but after visiting the ones that are original both inside and out, I have lost a lot of interest in visiting castles. I will always say that the exteriors are lovely and the detail is exquisite but I have trouble loving it.
From what you just mentioned, I wouldn’t mind visiting the Hayashibara Museum and maybe the Tokoen Garden. It seems like my kind of place, albeit a bit small. 🙂 Not sure of the Orient Museum of Yumeji Museum. The Bunkan of the Yumeji Museum looks interesting, but it isn’t in the city, from what I can tell.
Yes, the trams are charming. Trams all over Japan are pretty cool. I found the Nagasaki ones to be the scariest. Wooden floors! Hiroshima is probably the best hodgepodge of trams ever. Never rode the ones in Okayama, so I can’t say if they are fun or not. The exteriors are nice though.
I stand corrected that the Kibi Plains are outside of Okayama City, although it is a short train ride. I should clarify it a little. I do want to do it, and I am planning to revisit Okayama for the Kibi Plains. I want to do the Kibi Plains bike ride for a half day trip.
Momotaro is not a famous story in Canada. I rarely heard any stories about Japan in Canada. It is more of a regional thing. I also never grew up knowing a single Japanese person until after I graduated University. My exposure was extremely limited to anime and manga that I watched and read a little and the odd wacky Japanese movie that happened to catch my attention at the video store. 🙂
I heard from a friend, who’s wife’s family lives in nearby Himeji area, said most of the famous places are a short car drive away. Saijo Inari and Ashimori looks like it. A 2km walk from the nearest station to Saijo Inari, and I don’t know how far it is to Ashimori on foot from the train. Maybe a bus, but I didn’t check yet. They sound interesting, but something a typical tourist doesn’t have the luxury of doing. While I don’t discredit the fact that the Okayama area has a lot to offer, I still think Okayama city (the central area) is relatively not as interesting, but you are peaking my interest into giving it a second chance. 🙂
I do know about the Hadaka Matsuri. I have a friend who was in it this year! From his video, it seems to be a little out of the way from Okayama. Not in the central city. You can see his video here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TTNY300fv6E
Food: Please tell me what I should eat and where it is! I want to know. I tried to look for information but couldn’t find anything good. I do know that the beer wasn’t bad though. 😀
I just want to say it again, while I didn’t particularly enjoy Okayama, I felt I was a little biased as it was right after my trip to the Setouchi Triennale. I was tired after that big trip and having seen so many interesting things, it was a let down to go to Okayama and see a lot of what I had already seen before. I do believe it is a nice place, but I didn’t think it was unique from what I have seen in my previous journeys. I am near a point in my travels that I need a friend in each city to make it fun or else it is “just another city”. Having visited over half of Japan, it’s getting harder to see something that really makes me think “WOW”.
FYI: The person who said Kairakuen is better is from Mito. Obviously that is a serious hometown bias. I have been outside of Kairakuen, but never inside of it. I never had a chance to actually do real sightseeing in Mito. That’s one of the reasons I want to visit Mito for sightseeing. In terms of the Top 3, I also heard that many of the lists are based on literary writings. What inspired Japanese writers in the past. Obviously it is subjective and I also know that I didn’t visit Korakuen in the best season. Bad timing is bad timing but I hope my final paragraph in the post was explicit enough.
I can understand how it is a little different to go to Okayama (or any city really) after visiting the art islands in the Seto Inland Sea. Those islands are truly amazing (I’ve been to 3 of them) and for residents, it really feels like a ‘break from Japan’, even though obviously it’s still in Japan. Since those were your main purpose, going to Okayama afterwards is kind of like ‘back to Japan’ which is not a BAD thing, but the island art is just so unique compared to the typical shrines, temples, gardens, castles, etc. that everyplace else has. Had you planned an ‘Okayama trip’ your frame of mind would likely have been different and you’d probably have a different opinion. Incidentally, though, the art island Inujima is actually owned by Okayama City. lol
Yes, I wouldn’t compare Okayama Castle to the originals either. Actually, it’s nice to see someone who also appreciates age and authenticity. I die a little inside when people say they prefer Osaka Castle or some other reconstruction over the originals. Compared to other rebuilt castles, though, I like Okayama Castle. It’s broad front and slim sides are something I can’t say I’ve seen in other castles. I think Hiroshima Castle is a bit ugly.
Actually, you can visit Saijo Inari and Ashimori by bike. The main Kibi Cycling trail runs to Soja Station but near the center another trail branches off and takes you near Saijo Inari’s massive torii gate and then to the Ashimori area. Ashimori is reachable on foot though from Ashimori Station. I don’t think it’s such a bad walk but I’ve never done it. Most tourists, as you say, don’t have the luxury/time to really explore. Confining travel to the ‘culture zone’ really just gives you a taste of the city.
If you like beer, you can actually tour the Kirin Beer Factory in Okayama. lol That’s another site. I’ve never done it, although factory tours are a nice change of pace sometimes.
Okayama’s famous local dishes are:
-Kibi Dango – the famous snacks in the Momotaro story
-Demikatsudon – Katsudon with a demiglace sauce
-Mamakari
-Barazushi (made with the mamakari)
-Fruit Parfaits – With white peaches, peonies, and muscat grapes, they feature throughout the city in parfaits. There is even a fruit parfait guide map.
-Kabakuro – This is actually the restaurant’s name. It’s not very old but it has quickly become one of the city’s favorite places to eat.
Although restaurants are recommended, many of these can be bought in the shopping area in the station across from the ticket gates. They sell them for travelers to eat on the train. Much better than grabbing Conbini food.
Kurashiki is definitely nice and ideal for couples travel. Expanding the talk to the prefectural level certainly puts Okayama on top as one of the best, I think. With a top garden, top historic district, original castle which is also the highest and only original mountain castle, Japan’s (possibly the world’s) first integrated school, etc. there is a lot there to love.
I visited Okayama twice for the Setouchi. Once for Inujima, and once for Uno Port. Was lovely, but this is all about Okayama city, rather the central part. 🙂
The first castle I ever visited was Hiroshima Castle. That was before I knew anything about them. Having been to several now, I still have trouble visiting recreations.
I’ll keep Saijo Inari and Ashimori in mind when I do the Kibi Plains. The only problem is that it will be a side trip for my main trip, a bike ride on the Shimanami Kaido. I’m just hoping I can do it next year. I was planning to do the Kibi Plains in half a day and spend the night in Onomichi. Do you think I can visit Saijo Inari and Ashimori along with the Kibi Plains route in half a day? Starting around 10am and finishing before 3pm? Otherwise I’d be adding a full day to the trip when I don’t know if I can. I might anyways.
Kirin Beer factory? I’ve been to the one in Kawasaki and it isn’t too interesting for me. I’m a bit of a snob when it comes to beer lately. I wouldn’t mind visiting the 地ビール factories if there are any. 🙂
Food: I wanted to have the demikatsudon, but my friend didn’t and we couldn’t find a restaurant that had it. I’ll have to check out the Kabakuro though. Sounds interesting. My only problem with eating was that I couldn’t leave the station on my way home. I left from Kurashiki and went straight into the shinkansen section. Terrible selection inside, unless I missed something. Just typical shinkansen conbini options.
Kurashiki. More on that soon. ^^
I don’t like beer at all myself, but I like factory tours so I keep thinking about doing it but haven’t committed yet. I have heard the winery in Akaiwa is really good from some Japanese people but that’s not in Okayama city and wine isn’t beer. haha
Certainly you can do the main Kibi Plains trail in half a day… adding Saijo Inari and Ashimori sounds difficult though. You could probably do one (either the Ashimori area OR Saijo Inari) in combination. Saijo Inari would probably be easier. Even though the actual shrine is off the trail, seeing the torii gate is a giveaway of the location.
Ashimori (which is probably the one I would choose) would require you to navigate yourself. From Bitchu Kokubunji (according to Google) it would be a 1hr43min walk, so you can consider how long that would take by bike on flat land. Since there are stations near both (Ashimori Station in Ashimori and Bitchu Takamatsu Station for Saijo Inari) the station workers could help with navigation and maybe maps if you had problems or weren’t sure of the direction.
Yes, inside the gate is just typical conbini food. The good stuff is all across the way.
If you do go back to the Kibi Plains or other places, hopefully it will be a better experience! If not, I suppose no city can be liked by everyone!
Funny you mentioned wine. I have been thinking of doing a winery tour in Yamanashi. I have tried Japanese wine only once. It was from Hokkaido and supermarket wine. Let’s just say it would have been better in a stew rather than a glass. 🙂 As for the Kirin factory tour, I found it to be boring. Considering it was years ago when my Japanese wasn’t very good, I’m not so surprised. I might go again soon as I know how to make beer now. I would consider going to a 地ビール factory instead. They usually have sake too. I tried to see if the Doppo Beer company had a factory tour, but I don’t think so.
Seems like I might be adding a day to do the Kibi Plains. My thought was to do the Kibi Plains and Onomichi town in 1 day. Might be better to take it easy and spend 2 nights in Onomichi. Who knows. I’m planning to go in spring. Maybe late April or late May. When it is warmer. Those 2 side trips might be worth it then.
I’m hopeful for the Kibi Plains. who knows to be honest. I doubt I’ll spend the night in Okayama again, but I’ll definitely give the region another try. You just gave me a couple more places to try out. Thanks! 😀
Okayama and Yamanashi are huge fruit prefectures, so they SHOULD have good wine but since I don’t really drink much I can’t really say (in terms of the fruits, though, Okayama’s peaches cannot be beat). I think I might do the Kirin Tour in the winter when all life outside is dead since there is nothing seasonal about a factory tour.
That would probably be better for both the plains and Onomichi, especially if your Onomichi tour includes the Shimanami Kaido. It took me all day to bike from Onomichi to Imabari. I may have been a bit slow though, with my weighty backpack and kinda crappy ‘mama bike’ rental.
Incidentally, late April/early May is also one of the best times to visit Korakuen. It’s when the Kirishima azaleas (and some other flowers) are in bloom.
It’s a bit far away, but I hope you enjoy the plains and Onomichi! I look forward to your Kurashiki page.
I didn’t know Okayama is such a big fruit Prefecture. I know Yamanashi is though, but that is more reginalism than anything else. Hope the factory tour is fun. There are a lot of factory tours here that I want to do too, but keep putting it off.
I heard that it takes a full day to go from Onomichi to Imabari. I was planning to do it over 2 days so I can explore the islands a bit more. Try to stop at a pension or ryokan somewhere in the middle. Only problem is a friend of mine doesn’t eat seafood! Yes, he lives in Japan. Sounds like I have a full 7 days for this trip now. 🙂
It sounds promising to revisit Korakuen, but I will be honest in saying I doubt I’ll do it. I’m thinking 1 day on the Kibi Plains, 1 day Onomichi, 2 days Shimanami Kaido, 2 days in Matsuyama. Considering I wanted just 5 days, the trip is getting bigger and bigger. 🙂
Kurashiki should be here in a couple weeks. 😀
I’ve actually never been to Okayama City itself, but the prefecture as a whole is a really great place. I think the more touristy and cultural city to visit is Kurashiki, which is the only place in Okayama I’ve ever been to. Maybe that city will meet the Setouchi standard next time 🙂
Funny you should say that. I did go to Kurashiki too. It is coming up. Maybe in 1-2 weeks. I won’t give everything away, but it was better than Okayama, in my own opinion.